need help with body lift

mantis · 06-13-2008, 12:06 PM

So I have a 99 GMC sierra 1500 4 WD and I bought 33" MT Baja Claw LT 305/70R16's. Look great but the front rubs the wheel well if I turn sharp. So I bought a body lift. Some one told me that I needed a 3" lift.(I was going to get a 2" I thought that would be enough) Any way This is becoming a pain In the @#*.My question is does any one know if I can get away with a 2" lift and will this be more simple to do? I got the bed done( beside the bumper) But the cab is giving me a problem.I guess I need to disconect and extend some stuff hope someone can help.

75K30 · 06-13-2008, 02:10 PM

Welcome to the site;

The difference in labor between a 2" and 3" body lift is minimal. Pretty much the same modifications will have to be performed, so they are about the same.
Now as far as your problem with the cab, what exactly is the problem? About the only things you will have to consider extending is the steering shaft, and maybe a slight trans tunnel cut if you have a manually selected transfer case, or even a 5 speed manual transmission.
Your brake lines will reach, and your steering shaft should extend far enough to accomodate this.
I guess knowing what you are having problems with would help us to help you.
Oh,,,,,you will want to loosten the radiator shroud. This will hold everything up, since the fan will not allow you to raise the truck.
Also lift one side at a time, and keep the opposite side just loose enough to allow you to lift the body. This will keep it straight, and allow you to start the new bolts again.

mantis · 06-13-2008, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75K30

Welcome to the site;

The difference in labor between a 2" and 3" body lift is minimal. Pretty much the same modifications will have to be performed, so they are about the same.
Now as far as your problem with the cab, what exactly is the problem? About the only things you will have to consider extending is the steering shaft, and maybe a slight trans tunnel cut if you have a manually selected transfer case, or even a 5 speed manual transmission.
Your brake lines will reach, and your steering shaft should extend far enough to accomodate this.
I guess knowing what you are having problems with would help us to help you.
Oh,,,,,you will want to loosten the radiator shroud. This will hold everything up, since the fan will not allow you to raise the truck.
Also lift one side at a time, and keep the opposite side just loose enough to allow you to lift the body. This will keep it straight, and allow you to start the new bolts again.

thanks That may be the problem I didn't losen the shroud.That may be why it didn't raise farther then about 2 inches.It seems like it is being held up on something.Its an automatic so I guess I am fine there.now do I need to ectend the steering shaft? or is that just a possability?Would that stop it from raising too?

75K30 · 06-13-2008, 03:51 PM

Could stop it, but doubtfull. I would check for little things like wiring harnesses, and the air intake, since it is attached to the body. You also have some vacuum lines and other small misc. items, that all might add up to be contributing factors.
Your transmission cable shoud have plenty of slack, as will your emergency brake cables, but do look at all of the to be sure your not getting hung up. The easiest side is the pass side, so I would start there.
Did your kit come with provisions to modify the shroud, or lower it, or perhaps you are on your own there?
You will not be able to lower that radiator, since it mounts to the bodies core support, but you will be able to move the shroud down. Try not to eliminate the lower portion of the shroud. Cooling problems could follow.
Little trial and error should get you goung there, and once you figure out what is hanging you up, it will be a breeze.
Also beware where you lift the body from. The sheetmetal is thin, and if you use a bottle jack or similar, you run the risk of damaging the body. A large block of wood helps to distrubute the load evenly accross the body.
Good luck

mantis · 06-13-2008, 04:06 PM

Thanks again. Yes I have been using a block of wood so I don't do any damage.and lifting slow then check and lift some more.I will have to check again and check for those things.and hopefully it will cool down some so I can work a little more comfortably.I don't plan I cutting the shroud or anything so I will have to figure it out.
I didn't buy a kit just the blocks. and have to fabricate everything else. I don't mind doing that,but I Thought I would save some money.but after it is all said and done, I'm not to sure if I will save at all

75K30 · 06-13-2008, 04:21 PM

Wow, I did not know you could buy just blocks.
Let me ask you this, and it may sound like I am getting on your case a little, so apologies in advance.
What type of material are you using for your body lift blocks? What grade fasteners are you planning on using.
Do you know the proper torque for these fasteners?

I ask because you are about to step into a dangerous, or potentially hazerdous world of vehicle modification. There is quite a bot of added leverage placed on the body, and the frame mounts. Body spacers that can colapse, or deteriorate, or be contaminated by oils or solvents should not be used. Three inches may not feel like a whole bunch, but ask a lady what it was like walking on three inch heels for the first time, and you will see three inches is quite a bit.
I want to express my concern for saftey. I am not a big fan of body lifts, and home grown kits are a little scary. Not really worth it just to save a few bucks. zI know bucks are tight now for most everyone, but consider doing a professional job, and also consider that some dept of transportation agencies prohibit the use of body lifts.
There are many things to consider, but the biggest is the clamping force provided by the fasteners, that keeps the body attached to the frame. In the event of an accident, you will not want to be in a vehicle that has poor quality fasteners holding it through some hockey pucks (yes I have seen this) or blocks of wood (yes I have seen this too).
Use the best materials possible, and designe with saftey in mind.
This is what you get with a complete kit. The engineering behind a store bought kit is why a complete kit costs a little more. Often time, it is less expensive to just buy the kit.
I will get off of my soap box now, and would like to close by saying,,,,,,
Please be safe...

mantis · 06-13-2008, 05:03 PM

No I apreciate your concern. I bought these

Performance Accessories 3" Body Lift Spacers

By faseners I am guessing that you mean bolts they are 10.9 grade.strongest I could find.I am basicly instead of buying a compleat kit I just bought the pieces seperatly.
Yeah I have seen hockeypucks too...Think I'll catch the next ride thankyou

mantis · 06-19-2008, 08:49 PM

OK so I finaly figured out what it was haning up on. It was the front bumper.once I took it off the rest was a breeze

.Now I just have to fab some brackets.and I should be set.I think the only wire that I have to extend is the ground that bolts to the firewall other than that it should all be fine.Hopefully I will have it finnished by tomorrow

06-13-2008, 12:06 PM	#1
mantis Full Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 32	need help with body lift So I have a 99 GMC sierra 1500 4 WD and I bought 33" MT Baja Claw LT 305/70R16's. Look great but the front rubs the wheel well if I turn sharp. So I bought a body lift. Some one told me that I needed a 3" lift.(I was going to get a 2" I thought that would be enough) Any way This is becoming a pain In the @#*.My question is does any one know if I can get away with a 2" lift and will this be more simple to do? I got the bed done( beside the bumper) But the cab is giving me a problem.I guess I need to disconect and extend some stuff hope someone can help.

06-13-2008, 05:03 PM	#7
mantis Full Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 32	No I apreciate your concern. I bought these Performance Accessories 3" Body Lift Spacers By faseners I am guessing that you mean bolts they are 10.9 grade.strongest I could find.I am basicly instead of buying a compleat kit I just bought the pieces seperatly. Yeah I have seen hockeypucks too...Think I'll catch the next ride thankyou Attached Thumbnails

06-19-2008, 08:49 PM	#8
mantis Full Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 32	OK so I finaly figured out what it was haning up on. It was the front bumper.once I took it off the rest was a breeze.Now I just have to fab some brackets.and I should be set.I think the only wire that I have to extend is the ground that bolts to the firewall other than that it should all be fine.Hopefully I will have it finnished by tomorrow

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06-13-2008, 02:10 PM	#2
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	Welcome to the site; The difference in labor between a 2" and 3" body lift is minimal. Pretty much the same modifications will have to be performed, so they are about the same. Now as far as your problem with the cab, what exactly is the problem? About the only things you will have to consider extending is the steering shaft, and maybe a slight trans tunnel cut if you have a manually selected transfer case, or even a 5 speed manual transmission. Your brake lines will reach, and your steering shaft should extend far enough to accomodate this. I guess knowing what you are having problems with would help us to help you. Oh,,,,,you will want to loosten the radiator shroud. This will hold everything up, since the fan will not allow you to raise the truck. Also lift one side at a time, and keep the opposite side just loose enough to allow you to lift the body. This will keep it straight, and allow you to start the new bolts again.

06-13-2008, 03:51 PM	#4
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	Could stop it, but doubtfull. I would check for little things like wiring harnesses, and the air intake, since it is attached to the body. You also have some vacuum lines and other small misc. items, that all might add up to be contributing factors. Your transmission cable shoud have plenty of slack, as will your emergency brake cables, but do look at all of the to be sure your not getting hung up. The easiest side is the pass side, so I would start there. Did your kit come with provisions to modify the shroud, or lower it, or perhaps you are on your own there? You will not be able to lower that radiator, since it mounts to the bodies core support, but you will be able to move the shroud down. Try not to eliminate the lower portion of the shroud. Cooling problems could follow. Little trial and error should get you goung there, and once you figure out what is hanging you up, it will be a breeze. Also beware where you lift the body from. The sheetmetal is thin, and if you use a bottle jack or similar, you run the risk of damaging the body. A large block of wood helps to distrubute the load evenly accross the body. Good luck

06-13-2008, 04:06 PM	#5
mantis Full Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 32	Thanks again. Yes I have been using a block of wood so I don't do any damage.and lifting slow then check and lift some more.I will have to check again and check for those things.and hopefully it will cool down some so I can work a little more comfortably.I don't plan I cutting the shroud or anything so I will have to figure it out. I didn't buy a kit just the blocks. and have to fabricate everything else. I don't mind doing that,but I Thought I would save some money.but after it is all said and done, I'm not to sure if I will save at all

06-13-2008, 04:21 PM	#6
75K30 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 2,992	Wow, I did not know you could buy just blocks. Let me ask you this, and it may sound like I am getting on your case a little, so apologies in advance. What type of material are you using for your body lift blocks? What grade fasteners are you planning on using. Do you know the proper torque for these fasteners? I ask because you are about to step into a dangerous, or potentially hazerdous world of vehicle modification. There is quite a bot of added leverage placed on the body, and the frame mounts. Body spacers that can colapse, or deteriorate, or be contaminated by oils or solvents should not be used. Three inches may not feel like a whole bunch, but ask a lady what it was like walking on three inch heels for the first time, and you will see three inches is quite a bit. I want to express my concern for saftey. I am not a big fan of body lifts, and home grown kits are a little scary. Not really worth it just to save a few bucks. zI know bucks are tight now for most everyone, but consider doing a professional job, and also consider that some dept of transportation agencies prohibit the use of body lifts. There are many things to consider, but the biggest is the clamping force provided by the fasteners, that keeps the body attached to the frame. In the event of an accident, you will not want to be in a vehicle that has poor quality fasteners holding it through some hockey pucks (yes I have seen this) or blocks of wood (yes I have seen this too). Use the best materials possible, and designe with saftey in mind. This is what you get with a complete kit. The engineering behind a store bought kit is why a complete kit costs a little more. Often time, it is less expensive to just buy the kit. I will get off of my soap box now, and would like to close by saying,,,,,, Please be safe...