Vintage Spicer Double Cardan (P171)?

[chengny]

Any ideas as to whether parts are still available for this unit? It is still in excellent shape - really only requires the seals. The ball - and all three of the bearings that it rides in - appear to be perfect. The loading spring is good and the casing is fully intact.

The u-joint end caps are stamped - Spicer P171 - and the input flange has the following stampings

601-X and on the other side is stamped a starburst then a kind of twisted S followed by 49.


I am attempting to attach some images. If they don't make it, would someone school me in how to do that (attach images).

[stumpuller454]

whats this off of? did you already try to get parts? everthing looks familiar...you`d be suprised whats still available...try NAPA they can usually get stuff for the oldies...

[chengny]

Didn't really check the parts stores too thoroughly yet. Was picking up something else at Pep Boys yesterday and asked if they stocked any parts for Dana Spicer double cardan joints - in hindsight maybe I should have called it a CV joint. Anyway, all I got was that - baby bird waiting for a worm - look. Took that as a bad sign, I will check a local guy.

The thing appears to be original (22 years old min) and does not show up on the Dana Spicer charts.

Do the stampings mean anything to anyone?

Thanks in advance.

[Lonesome7.3]

For something like this you are better off going to someplace that specializes drivetrain parts. I know NAPA is good at getting hard to find stuff. But I have noticed they are slowing becomeing more like the other stores with know nothings working behind the counter. I do not know where you live, but I have always used Florida Powertrain. They have other sites in other states as well.

[z07]

eMail those pictures and your question to Rich richp@drivetrainspecialists.com

[stumpuller454]

It looks like the shaft outta my old 80 GMC, for sure you can get parts for that...

[chengny]

You know, sometimes the best answer is the simplest one.

Spot-on Mr. Stumpuller, Napa had the rebuild kit on the shelf (31.90 USD).

Currently, have the kit in hand and will attempt to rebuild the double cardan section tonight and install new u-joints tomorrow.

Thanks all. Let you know how things go.

BTW - I assume that the ball is held in place by a allen head bolt, is it?

[chengny]

Back again. Anyone familiar with the methods used to secure the centering ball to the drive shaft input yoke. From what I can see, the centering ball is mounted on a short shaft that extendeds rearward (towards the transfer case) and is integral with the yoke. It appears that the end of the shaft was center bored during the manufacturing process, the ball was slipped over it and then finally it was swaged to lock the ball in place.

The front side of the yoke is blind, nothing like a nut or pressed in plug so no help there.

I have some good visuals but for whatever reason the little paper clip is no longer on the toobar. Never mind switched to advanced and it's there.

[stumpuller454]

um... that ball shouldn`t be on the peice that it is on. in the center of that ball there are needle bearings inside, my guess is they are rusted on there,... as you can probly see with the new kit there is the ball, with needles in the center and a retainer around the outside of the ball, that retainer is pressed into the outer peice of the shaft that attaches to the t-case. then a seal is installed after on top. you`ll have to get that ball of somehow and hopw that the pin that goes inside it isn`t pitted, which won`t help making the new goodies last to long, show pics of when you get the ball off...of the pin

[chengny]

Nah, it's the way it should be. No needle bearings in this part of the CV.

There is no rust or corrosion and the pieces contained in the NAPA supplied rebuild kit match up exactly with the internals of my unit (they threw in an extra - stronger spring). See the images. This was functioning as designed when I tore it down - just that the grease seal had popped out along with the backing washer. I was initially tempted to just try and pop it back in with a screwdriver but figured 22 years it was long overdue for some PM.

The condition of the ball is such that I may just keep it in place and renew the rest of the parts. I miked it - it's perfectly round and identical in diameter to the new one.