Oh Boy :(

PickUpGirl787 · 09-26-2008, 12:57 PM

I think I have a bigger problem than the Idler Pulley.... My brakes are grinding really bad on the right side. I cant tell if it is the front or back. But when I start to slow down it sometimes grinds and you can feel it and hear it. When I come up to a stop light or stop sign its way worse because I actually have to stop. What might that be?

junior3382 · 09-26-2008, 01:07 PM

pads. if the pads on your rotors are all but wonr, some will have a constant squeak, most will make a rukus while stopping. If they are grinding, you need to replace them like NOW. Pads are cheap and easy to do yourself, but I would not push those off.

03chevy · 09-26-2008, 01:32 PM

if it is grinding look at your rotors and see if they have groves in them just look through your rims and see. and if so then you need to buy rotors too. like jr said do it now

mudseeker · 09-26-2008, 01:45 PM

if the grinding is recent, you may be able to have the rotors turned. i think napa turns rotors.

bradrhale · 09-26-2008, 02:43 PM

grinding is usually the rivets that the pads are attached to the metal braket with. new pads absolutely.

mudseeker · 09-26-2008, 03:34 PM

just don't be like my sister and wear them completely out.

as JW put it, she didn't even leave any for the buzzards.

PickUpGirl787 · 09-26-2008, 10:45 PM

haha yuh its the pads I took it to Merlins today because Im at school so I dont have anyone to help me with this stuff and they quoted me $1000 the guy was ******** nuts. So I drove it home and parked it and hopefully will fix it next weekend. The grinding just started today so hopefully I can avoid the rotar thing. If I look at the bright side Im saving gas money because Im not driving it and I can ride my bike to work so maybe Ill lose a few pounds

what would be a fair price to do the two front pads, and rotars? I have someone who will do the work for free so Im just talking parts.

hotrodpc · 09-26-2008, 10:46 PM

Yep, do it NOW. With any luck the damage done may be able to be turned out of the rotor as long as it stays in spec. If you are real lucky, all you are hearing is the wear sensor, but that usually does not grind. Just Git R' Done NOW. Do not put it off or it can get very expensive with the damage you are doing each time you drive it. If you do have a choice of bonded pads or riveted pads, get the bonded. And when you change them, do not let the caliper hang by the hose, use a piece of wire, rope or anything and hang the caliper on something like the upper A arm to keep the weight off the hose and damaging it too. Very simple task if you do it right. Good Luck.

hotrodpc · 09-26-2008, 10:53 PM

Your post came up just as I was typing mine. Dayum, yeah tell that guy to go to HEII. Pads will be about $30 for good semi metalics. Find a machine shop, Auto Zone or someone to turn your rotors. Should be about $8 each maybe a bit more or less. Also since the rotors are coming off, have whoever repack you bearings, so you will also need wheel seals at about $6 or so each. Provided your rotors are within spec, and your calipers and hoses are in good shape, that ought to be it. Maybe a small bottle of the anti-sqeek stuff for the back of the pads at about $5. A small bottle will be enough for about 5 or 6 brake jobs. $1000 is major ripoff. Even if you need all new rotors and calipers, it should be under $500. The guy is a flat out crook. Straight up.

leolkfrm · 09-27-2008, 08:29 AM

Chances are what pad was left fell off, don't waste your time turning the rotors! they won't last they way they should. Bite the bullet, put new pads and rotors on it and the job will last longer. Being a 1/2 ton the price for parts should not be toooo bad

09-26-2008, 12:57 PM	#1
PickUpGirl787 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 711	Oh Boy :( I think I have a bigger problem than the Idler Pulley.... My brakes are grinding really bad on the right side. I cant tell if it is the front or back. But when I start to slow down it sometimes grinds and you can feel it and hear it. When I come up to a stop light or stop sign its way worse because I actually have to stop. What might that be? __________________ Ashley My first truck was a 1988 Chevy 1500 with the 305 My new truck is a 1997 GMC 1500 with the 350

09-26-2008, 01:07 PM	#2
junior3382 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Currently, I live in Lancaster county, Pennsylvania. Posts: 3,170	pads. if the pads on your rotors are all but wonr, some will have a constant squeak, most will make a rukus while stopping. If they are grinding, you need to replace them like NOW. Pads are cheap and easy to do yourself, but I would not push those off. __________________ *The Blazer is dead, so I pumped her with lead, laid her to bed, and bought a FORD instead!*

09-26-2008, 01:32 PM	#3
03chevy Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: jax,fl Posts: 1,186	if it is grinding look at your rotors and see if they have groves in them just look through your rims and see. and if so then you need to buy rotors too. like jr said do it now __________________ A dirty mind is a terrible thing to waste!

09-26-2008, 10:45 PM	#7
PickUpGirl787 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Illinois Posts: 711	haha yuh its the pads I took it to Merlins today because Im at school so I dont have anyone to help me with this stuff and they quoted me $1000 the guy was ******** nuts. So I drove it home and parked it and hopefully will fix it next weekend. The grinding just started today so hopefully I can avoid the rotar thing. If I look at the bright side Im saving gas money because Im not driving it and I can ride my bike to work so maybe Ill lose a few pounds what would be a fair price to do the two front pads, and rotars? I have someone who will do the work for free so Im just talking parts. __________________ Ashley My first truck was a 1988 Chevy 1500 with the 305 My new truck is a 1997 GMC 1500 with the 350

09-27-2008, 08:29 AM	#10
leolkfrm Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: N.Y. Posts: 4,300	Chances are what pad was left fell off, don't waste your time turning the rotors! they won't last they way they should. Bite the bullet, put new pads and rotors on it and the job will last longer. Being a 1/2 ton the price for parts should not be toooo bad __________________ 4 wheels move the body 2 wheels move the soul B.W.A.I

09-26-2008, 01:45 PM	#4
mudseeker Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 6,374	if the grinding is recent, you may be able to have the rotors turned. i think napa turns rotors.

09-26-2008, 02:43 PM	#5
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 8,025	grinding is usually the rivets that the pads are attached to the metal braket with. new pads absolutely.

09-26-2008, 03:34 PM	#6
mudseeker Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 6,374	just don't be like my sister and wear them completely out. as JW put it, she didn't even leave any for the buzzards.

09-26-2008, 10:46 PM	#8
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	Yep, do it NOW. With any luck the damage done may be able to be turned out of the rotor as long as it stays in spec. If you are real lucky, all you are hearing is the wear sensor, but that usually does not grind. Just Git R' Done NOW. Do not put it off or it can get very expensive with the damage you are doing each time you drive it. If you do have a choice of bonded pads or riveted pads, get the bonded. And when you change them, do not let the caliper hang by the hose, use a piece of wire, rope or anything and hang the caliper on something like the upper A arm to keep the weight off the hose and damaging it too. Very simple task if you do it right. Good Luck.

09-26-2008, 10:53 PM	#9
hotrodpc Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 3,149	Your post came up just as I was typing mine. Dayum, yeah tell that guy to go to HEII. Pads will be about $30 for good semi metalics. Find a machine shop, Auto Zone or someone to turn your rotors. Should be about $8 each maybe a bit more or less. Also since the rotors are coming off, have whoever repack you bearings, so you will also need wheel seals at about $6 or so each. Provided your rotors are within spec, and your calipers and hoses are in good shape, that ought to be it. Maybe a small bottle of the anti-sqeek stuff for the back of the pads at about $5. A small bottle will be enough for about 5 or 6 brake jobs. $1000 is major ripoff. Even if you need all new rotors and calipers, it should be under $500. The guy is a flat out crook. Straight up.

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