Anti freeze seeping out?

[75K30]

These era vehicles are known for bad quick disconnect heater hose fittings. They move and leak. Pressure tests are also not a good indication for this type of leak because the hose does not move like it does when the engine is running and the vehicle, passes over bumps in the road.
While is could be an intake leak, I would check the heater hoses. Easy fix and not all that exensive. If you have a Snap-On pressure tester, then you will have the tools in your box, to make this repair. Nice pressure tester by the way, I also own one.

[partsman]

Well with the pressure tester up to 15 or so Lbs, I can see seepage at the front corners of the lower intake manifold, looks like the sides above the rocker cover are filling up with some anti freeze, so anyway dealer says bring it in on Saturday so they can have a look.

Did notice the pressure guage showing slow rise in pressure with truck running, but I think that is normal when engine runs and water starts to heat up, am I right?

I have seen when a head gasket goes the guage goes really fast, so I figure the rise in my case is just from having the engine running and warming up.

[leolkfrm]

there ya go you diagnosed it , proved the dealer wrong, now make them fix it! Good work, As for the pressure build, yes it should be slowlike the cap is on, remember the cap will allow up to about 18#s, then releases. A head will make it jump up quick.

[partsman]

Well took the truck to the dealer, I actually bought a rad cap as I did not think the old one was working properly, anyway put it in the truck and took of for the 54 Kilometer trip to the dealer, they took it into the shop and found the rad was leaking and squirting out and they showed me when I came back from the daughter and I going for a walk while they looked it over.

So they say they have to replace the rad and the bypass hose is in rough shape, (which I knew and had bought a replacement for it)
anyway they need to replace both things before they can test the system, I told him I was surprised as I did not see the rad leaking, and am sure it was coming from the front of where the intake meets the block in the corners close to the head, so of course he says they are paying to replace the rad and hose and will have to go from there once the system is together and they can test it again, so will hopefully know by Tuesday the outcome of the work.

I still figure they will find the gaskets leaking on the intake, and I know they will not want to spend anymore money on it, as I got it pretty cheap, but I do figure by paying for this work, kind of opens them to almost admitting they are responsible for all the repairs if more is needed, but will cross that bridge when I come to it.

[gmctrucks]

FIND another shop it should have leaked meaning the rad when you did the pressure test. Call the 1-800 number and talk to a rep there taking you on a trip and just imagine how many other people they do this too or call a local news station and have them set them up hey they do that in Houston, Texas. Read what this HERO did in his life time.
Marvin Zindler - Yahoo! Search Results

[leolkfrm]

before you bought it they verified nothing wrong, soooo...they have to make good as you pointed it out and had a witness, it should hold up in small claims, they are just saving the grief. The rad for a 454 is about $350 us

[partsman]

Well they ate the cost of the rad and got it together and did a further pressure test, and now they can see the intake leaking, so that is being fixed now, but I gather they want me to come up with a part of it, so we shall see, I talked to a fellow there that said as far as he knows they are costing it out at 1014.00CDN to allow for a worst case scenario, but he says it will be probably cheaper as he feels from what he was told that it will just be change gaskets, change oil due to any possible contamination, and it will be back together in time for me to drive up on Friday to get it.
So now from my experience I can imagine the heater core might be the next spot to leak, but will wait and see.

Found this on the heater cores, not as easy as my Ford was, but not sounding too bad if it finally goes.
1991-92 R/V and 1991-98 C/K Series

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the instrument panel glove compartment.
4. Tag and unplug all electrical leads as necessary.
5. Remove the center air distribution duct from the floor.
6. If necessary, remove the ECM and mounting tray.
7. Remove the hinge pillar trim panels.
8. Remove the blower motor cover and then remove the motor.
9. Remove the steering wheel and tilt back the instrument panel slightly.
10. Remove the coolant overflow tank. Disengage the heater hoses at the core connections.
11. Unfasten the attaching screws and nut and then remove the heater case.
12. Remove the seven screws and lift off the heater case cover.
13. Remove the fasteners and brackets that hold the heater core to the case and lift the core from the case.

[gmctrucks]

I hope it all works out for you buddy.
Good luck! GMC

[partsman]

Thanks, I know the wife figured I was expecting too much, considering how much I got them to drop the price in the beginning, then they fixed anything I found wrong with it on there dime, except the leak which they still claim did not show when they first looked it over, and then on top of it I get them to pay for the repairs to date and at least half of this next repair although will try to hit them for more, so will see.

[leolkfrm]

But you told them of the leak before you bought it! they should eat it. If not they should return every penny you paid for it, it's like you have had it that long.