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Old 10-26-2009, 05:00 PM   #31
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Actually what Finatic said COULD work,
only problem is you still have a problem.
That's a "get you home" type fix.
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:09 PM   #32
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Okay, had a buddy from work drop by and look at truck, he used to work for GM dealer, anyway he took a look and tried some things, and at one point the truck fired up, but didn't again, he had no tools so just working with what I had which was not much as we both just got off work.
It appeared to be random thing, I did have the battery charger running as I had run the battery pretty low when trying to get it going before having it towed home, he did get to see the fuel pressure at 50psi while running.
Anyway when he left after a while I tried and it started, had 50 also when running, which had been zero before when trying to crank it, if you hit the throttle it moves a tiny bit up then seems to drop a wee bit then steady out.
Anyway had to take daughter to a class she is in so took car, but tried turning the truck over and the truck started, turned it off, came back a good half hour later and it fired and ran again, so am going to go out and try again when I go out to get daughter, will see what happens, the fellow from work is coming back tomorrow and bringing the wiring diagrams, but I will tell him I had it start at least three times now.
I wonder if the fact it runs at 50 Psi means it is not the pump but something else.
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:24 PM   #33
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Still betting on #13 (ha, a lucky guess ?)
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Old 10-26-2009, 08:43 PM   #34
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If my memory is right, I think you should have around 62# of pressure, I think you have a week pump
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Old 10-27-2009, 08:06 AM   #35
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cranking/start pessure should be like 10% higher than when running at idle i will check mitchell1 when i get to work and post what the pressure should be in p.s.i.
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Old 10-27-2009, 10:37 AM   #36
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Thanks, that would be nice, I gather I should only worry about the pressure at key on eng off, but I couldn't see the guage from the drivers seat and when the fellow did it he did not say what pressure he saw, he told me he did not get a feed to the relay, and thinks it could be a couple things, even the computer I think he said which would be expensive.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:50 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrodpc View Post
yeah, do what he said. It always worked with the kids raising them. One good whack they worked for about a week to 10 days, then had to whack'em again.
Ain't that the truth.
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Old 10-27-2009, 11:51 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crabtruck View Post
Actually what Finatic said COULD work,
only problem is you still have a problem.
That's a "get you home" type fix.
This is true, I used this method to get my truck from the back lot of the dealership I worked at to my bay. Sputtering and kicking the whole way.
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Last edited by Crmzendrgone; 10-28-2009 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:09 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by partsman View Post
...the fellow did it ..., he told me he did not get a feed to the relay,
and thinks it could be a couple things, even the computer I think he said which would be expensive.
If he did not get that "feed" items #6 and #7 from my list would have started it right up.
If the "feed" referred to the signal from computer,
keep in mind that the relay is only about as complicated as a light switch.
If the "feed" referred to the hot,
a fused jumper from #30 in relay socket to batt would have started it.

The other thing that seems to be getting lost here is that it died while driving.
At that point the truck is not using the relay anyways

If you have not done so yet, you really need to check wires by tank.

Last edited by crabtruck; 10-27-2009 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 10-27-2009, 12:16 PM   #40
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mitchell1 says for the 4.3-5.0-5.7Liter engines the fuel pump P.s.I. should be 60-66p.s.i.
7.4Liter engine 56-63p.s.i.
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Last edited by Chevy_Finatic79; 10-27-2009 at 12:31 PM.
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