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| GMC Truck Forum - GMC truck talk, etc. |
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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 9
| power window problems i have a 1985 gmc truck with power windows.the windows go up and down but seem like they take forever.you can lift both window glass up and down by hand about inch to inch and half. dont know if thats normal with the age of truck. is there any way to speed it up or change to a little faster operation.my grandfather has one exactly like it and it does the same.i'm a little younger and would like to work faster!!! even aftermarket. any help wou |
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| | #2 |
| Full Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: greenville,tx
Posts: 46
| if you've never changed the window motors they're just getting old and wornout, they are not real expensive and not too bad to change |
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| | #3 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 9
| thanks, i'll try that and see what happens |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 172
| nothing. it'll just work better. buy ones from internet, dealer will rip you off for something that goes bad in 60K miles. remove door panel. disconnect connectors. there should be 4, maybe 5 x 13mm bolt heads holding regulator frame in place. disconnect glass from regulator clips, i think, i had to lower glass down like halfway to get to those bolts. then i taped glass to the door on the outside, so that it does not fall down. remove regulator bolts. give it a smack and collapse it into the door. there's plenty of room to pull it out through a large opening in the door panel. collapse new one same way, put it in, open, bolt, bolt glass, done. took me maybe 15-20 minutes to do. i paid something like 70 bucks for mine. had both of them go bad on me after 60K miles. junk. |
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| | #5 |
| Full Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Suisun, Ca
Posts: 45
| Yeah not too expensive. Autozone seems to have the best prices on these motors. |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: So. NH
Posts: 197
| Hey, timely topic - I am troubleshooting my drivers side P/W right now. I had noticed this post the other day, so before de-energizing the circuit I took a moment to time the up/down stroke time on the passengers side. How long do you think it should take for a power window to go from stop to stop? I mean a well maintained setup - properly lubed with (but not buried under) white lithium grease, no excessive play in any of the linkage and good grooves for the widow to slide up and down in. And good tight weather stripping. It is consistently 4.5 seconds stop to stop. And, it doesn't change whether going up or down. Just mentioning this in case you already meet these specs - you know so you aren't disappointed when you buy all brand new (made in China) replacement parts and get the same (or slower) results. These trucks are meant to be repaired. Look at the linkage, there are most likely several bushings that can be renewed to bring it back to factory.
__________________ 1986 Sierra Classic Still Stock |
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| | #7 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 9
| i just got the replacement regulator/motor assy(aftermarket).it fixed the play(wear) in original.i thought this would be a good time to replace the rubber in the tracks.everything back together but its like it won't slide in the new rubber.removed rubber and the window zips up/down.anyone know what kind of lube i can put in the rubber.its rubber but has a felt on the edge.dont have the panel back on yet.getting tired of this problem. anybody,help,help,help! ![]() |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Houston,Texas
Posts: 4,030
| Spray some silicone on the window channels maybe that might help some. |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: So. NH
Posts: 197
| I can almost garantee that it will turn out to be something to do with the alignment of the tracks that is causing the binding. I cannot recall the exact circumstances, but I have hit this wall before. Everything works perfectly (as individual parts) but when the time comes to actually put it all together... the glass gets about 2/3rds of the way up and then it wants to drive itself right out of the grooves (towards the outside if I recall). Check this - and I am really reaching back - there are holes in the steel frame that the bolts pass through. I think that the bracketing can be mounted in a couple of different ways, both of which look right. But only one is (right). Let me look around for an image.
__________________ 1986 Sierra Classic Still Stock |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: So. NH
Posts: 197
| [img=http://img251.imagevenue.com/loc241/th_33202_P1010001_122_241lo.JPG][img=http://img105.imagevenue.com/loc599/th_33204_P1010002_122_599lo.JPG][img=http://img193.imagevenue.com/loc67/th_33205_P1010003_122_67lo.JPG][img=http://img180.imagevenue.com/loc661/th_33211_P1010004_122_661lo.JPG] [img=http://img235.imagevenue.com/loc473/th_33212_P1010005_122_473lo.JPG][img=http://img129.imagevenue.com/loc205/th_33214_P1010006_122_205lo.JPG [img=http://img198.imagevenue.com/loc794/th_33220_P1010008_122_794lo.JPG] Pretty pathetic photos I know - but maybe something will give you a hint (the scoring around the bolt holes for example). Sorry about the pop-ups. Download them and study at your leisure. Good luck. I will be back in posession of my truck tomorrow, it is an 86 and the windows work. Matter of fact, the regulators and power locks came out of the doors in the images. I will get better shots then.
__________________ 1986 Sierra Classic Still Stock |
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