Need advice- starter relay for 92 sierra?

showme · 07-01-2009, 05:22 PM

I posted my first question here a few weeks ago on a problem I'm having with my 92 Sierra. No start, even though the starter was newly rebuilt by a dependable shop, and had worked fine for a couple of days. I drove it about 30 miles and picked up a half ton of stuff, and when I tried to restart it, the starter motor took off, but didn't engage the flywheel. Towed it home. Took it off, and had the shop check it. checked out good. So did the battery, so I changed out the starter button (was there when I bought it). Nada. I finally got back under there since the heat died down, ohmed the wires to the solenoid, and they checked good. I dropped the starter, and found I'd wired the starter button wire to the R terminal, not the S. (When I got it up there, I guess it's all I could see, since the last one only had one small post). So here's my questions. First the stupid one, and I hate to ask this, but, what the **** is the R terminal there for, anyway? Second, I found a site that talks about installing a low voltage starter relay kit (Bosch WR1) that may save the button and give more power to the solenoid via a shorter path for the current to travel. I'd like to hear what you guys think about that. And the truck? Now nothing comes on, when at least before everything but the starter worked. Help me, folks! It's making me say bad things in front of the neighbors.

bradrhale · 07-01-2009, 08:10 PM

not familiar with the R and S. most of what i have seen had an S and I printed on there. if you hooked them up backwards, the starter would function with the key on the on position and off in the start position. this causes a problem as when you turn the key to on, the starter will keep going to the point of failure.

showme · 07-03-2009, 09:13 AM

Took a picture when I had it down the other day. The previous owner put in a push button start switch. He said it was because he didn't want to open up the column to replace the key starter switch. It has a line from fuse box to switch, switch to solenoid (which I found I'd put on the wrong post after I got it back up in there last time), and then the battery post to battery. I think it may have fried the fuse block that the switch wire went into (marked batt at the fuse socket). It's a single spade that was run into the left side connector of the fuse holder. Looks like it's a bit melted. Would running a relay straight to the battery get rid of having to plug into the fuse box? Anywa, here's a pic of the "R" and "S" posts. Can anybody tell me what the R is supposed to stand for? Is it possible that the coil has anything to do with the starter not cranking? It's not in line with the wire, so I didn't think it would be part of the problem, but I'm stumped at this point. Oh, yeah. To make things a little more fun, my drivers side tire has gone flat, and the idiot who put it on must have used an impact wrench and been mad at his wife that day. I think I'm getting "SELL ME!" messages here. Sad thing is, it has 36k on a nice rebuilt engine, and runs like a top- when it starts. Thanks for any feedback on this, fellas. Lee

bradrhale · 07-03-2009, 12:28 PM

there is a point in time where starting over might not be a bad idea. if this is not working near what you like, replace the ignition in the column and do what the previous owner was too broke or lazy to do. this will take the rigged look out of the fuse block and make it look nice and neat again. it will probably cost a touch more but by the time you chase down all these problems with burnt wires and terminals, you could have a stock look and function again.

showme · 07-03-2009, 12:44 PM

Thanks, Brad, and believe me, I'm thinking about doing just that. The thing is, it's such a simple circuit, and so few things that it could be, it just seems like I'm just missing something easy. As far as the look, the old man actually made it look decent by installing the button through the removeable cover just below (and to the left of) the steering column, complete with rubber button cover. The wire goes only a few inches to the fuse block, and is behind the dash. Secondly, I just bought this truck as a fill in till I get the cracked head on my 90 Suburban 6.2 fixed, so I plan on selling it and making enough to pay for the head job, since I bought it very cheap for a truck with 30k on it. It has the usual peeling clear coat, but I still think it'll be a great truck for somebody else. I just want it to start again. Since everything else was operating but the starter, I was hoping that by bypassing the fuse block with the starter relay, I could just not go back to the "burnt spot" in the fuse box. But, yeah, you are right. If I was going to keep this truck for a while, I would have had that done already. Makes me really miss my old 51 and 66's, where nothing was in the steering column that didn't have to be there. Thanks again. But what about that "R" on the solenoid?

bradrhale · 07-03-2009, 12:52 PM

dont know if you can see this but ill give it a try.

this is what i meant by S and I. not familiar with R.

showme · 07-04-2009, 08:11 AM

Thanks. I forgot to mention before that the photo of mine is the way I found it when I took it down, (with the starter button on the "R" instead of the "S". I changed it before I put it back up. I remembered last night that I loosened up the main battery post nut on the solenoid to move it's cable away from the S post, and I think I may have neglected to tighten it back up. At least it's "gettable" from under the truck. Like I said earlier, I think, before I changed the posts, all dash instruments, lights, etc worked. After I changed it, it's like a dead battery. Nothing is coming on. This truck still has a wallyworld NeverStart in it from the previous owner. Amazingly enough, it's a 6 year old battery that still is holding good voltage, but I think I'm going to pull one of my Interstate's out of the Burb and try that. So it's back under the truck:(. Oh, and Happy Independence Day to everybody out there!

semocoachworks · 07-04-2009, 11:14 AM

Hey showme. I used to have a shop in the back of the old pepsi plant in leadington. The front was an antique shop. Anyway, here is a link to put a ford solenoid on the truck and it eliminates the wiring getting hot and getting hard to start. In your case, it may make it a whole lot easier to work on on the firewall. You might also check the adjustment of the actual ignition switch on top of the steering column up under the dash. There are 2 screws that hold the adjustmentment tight. You can loosen the screws and slide the switch up or down on the column. In your case, if your losing power, you would have to slide it up. You have your key switch and tumbler, then a rod that runs down the top of the column to this switch.

showme · 07-04-2009, 04:10 PM

Thanks, scw. I'll check that, because I DID replace the neutral safety switch, and I might have moved something I shouldn't have when doing it. But that was before I put the wire on the wrong post, and I had full power, (except to the starter) then. Unless you're saying it would have stopped the power to the starter. (??) Would it have done anything with the ign. button wire on the other (R) post? BTW, how'd you end up in SD? I know exactly where your shop was. Never knew it was back there, but I know where the old Pepsi plant and the antique store were. I was raised in Flat River, now rehabbing a house in Elvins, across from the old Elvins high school , aka West Elementary now. Thanks again for the tip. I always have Vicki Phillips rebuild my starters and alt's, so I'm pretty certain everything is ok. I still haven't changed out the wire to the starter, since it ohmed out ok. The guy I bought it from was a decent mechanic, and the wire is good 10ga auto wire. I'm a little concerned about my fuse box, though. When the starter acted up, I had driven it about 10 minutes, shut it off for just a second, then turned it back on so I could check my tranny oil level at a gas station. It took off whining like a banshee (not engaged), and it took me probably 45 seconds to get out and disconnect the battery cable to shut it off. I think it fried, at least, the fuse socket that the starter button was plugged into. Hence, the reason I was asking if anyone had any opinion on the Bosch relay (or any other that would work) I just need to get it back on the road and functional! THanks again! Lee

07-01-2009, 05:22 PM	#1
showme Full Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Park Hills, Missouri Posts: 11	Need advice- starter relay for 92 sierra? I posted my first question here a few weeks ago on a problem I'm having with my 92 Sierra. No start, even though the starter was newly rebuilt by a dependable shop, and had worked fine for a couple of days. I drove it about 30 miles and picked up a half ton of stuff, and when I tried to restart it, the starter motor took off, but didn't engage the flywheel. Towed it home. Took it off, and had the shop check it. checked out good. So did the battery, so I changed out the starter button (was there when I bought it). Nada. I finally got back under there since the heat died down, ohmed the wires to the solenoid, and they checked good. I dropped the starter, and found I'd wired the starter button wire to the R terminal, not the S. (When I got it up there, I guess it's all I could see, since the last one only had one small post). So here's my questions. First the stupid one, and I hate to ask this, but, what the **** is the R terminal there for, anyway? Second, I found a site that talks about installing a low voltage starter relay kit (Bosch WR1) that may save the button and give more power to the solenoid via a shorter path for the current to travel. I'd like to hear what you guys think about that. And the truck? Now nothing comes on, when at least before everything but the starter worked. Help me, folks! It's making me say bad things in front of the neighbors.

07-03-2009, 09:13 AM	#3
showme Full Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Park Hills, Missouri Posts: 11	Here's a pic Took a picture when I had it down the other day. The previous owner put in a push button start switch. He said it was because he didn't want to open up the column to replace the key starter switch. It has a line from fuse box to switch, switch to solenoid (which I found I'd put on the wrong post after I got it back up in there last time), and then the battery post to battery. I think it may have fried the fuse block that the switch wire went into (marked batt at the fuse socket). It's a single spade that was run into the left side connector of the fuse holder. Looks like it's a bit melted. Would running a relay straight to the battery get rid of having to plug into the fuse box? Anywa, here's a pic of the "R" and "S" posts. Can anybody tell me what the R is supposed to stand for? Is it possible that the coil has anything to do with the starter not cranking? It's not in line with the wire, so I didn't think it would be part of the problem, but I'm stumped at this point. Oh, yeah. To make things a little more fun, my drivers side tire has gone flat, and the idiot who put it on must have used an impact wrench and been mad at his wife that day. I think I'm getting "SELL ME!" messages here. Sad thing is, it has 36k on a nice rebuilt engine, and runs like a top- when it starts. Thanks for any feedback on this, fellas. Lee Attached Thumbnails

07-03-2009, 12:52 PM	#6
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 7,831	dont know if you can see this but ill give it a try. this is what i meant by S and I. not familiar with R. Attached Thumbnails

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07-01-2009, 08:10 PM	#2
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 7,831	not familiar with the R and S. most of what i have seen had an S and I printed on there. if you hooked them up backwards, the starter would function with the key on the on position and off in the start position. this causes a problem as when you turn the key to on, the starter will keep going to the point of failure.

07-03-2009, 12:28 PM	#4
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 7,831	there is a point in time where starting over might not be a bad idea. if this is not working near what you like, replace the ignition in the column and do what the previous owner was too broke or lazy to do. this will take the rigged look out of the fuse block and make it look nice and neat again. it will probably cost a touch more but by the time you chase down all these problems with burnt wires and terminals, you could have a stock look and function again.

07-03-2009, 12:44 PM	#5
showme Full Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Park Hills, Missouri Posts: 11	Thanks, Brad, and believe me, I'm thinking about doing just that. The thing is, it's such a simple circuit, and so few things that it could be, it just seems like I'm just missing something easy. As far as the look, the old man actually made it look decent by installing the button through the removeable cover just below (and to the left of) the steering column, complete with rubber button cover. The wire goes only a few inches to the fuse block, and is behind the dash. Secondly, I just bought this truck as a fill in till I get the cracked head on my 90 Suburban 6.2 fixed, so I plan on selling it and making enough to pay for the head job, since I bought it very cheap for a truck with 30k on it. It has the usual peeling clear coat, but I still think it'll be a great truck for somebody else. I just want it to start again. Since everything else was operating but the starter, I was hoping that by bypassing the fuse block with the starter relay, I could just not go back to the "burnt spot" in the fuse box. But, yeah, you are right. If I was going to keep this truck for a while, I would have had that done already. Makes me really miss my old 51 and 66's, where nothing was in the steering column that didn't have to be there. Thanks again. But what about that "R" on the solenoid?

07-04-2009, 08:11 AM	#7
showme Full Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Park Hills, Missouri Posts: 11	Thanks. I forgot to mention before that the photo of mine is the way I found it when I took it down, (with the starter button on the "R" instead of the "S". I changed it before I put it back up. I remembered last night that I loosened up the main battery post nut on the solenoid to move it's cable away from the S post, and I think I may have neglected to tighten it back up. At least it's "gettable" from under the truck. Like I said earlier, I think, before I changed the posts, all dash instruments, lights, etc worked. After I changed it, it's like a dead battery. Nothing is coming on. This truck still has a wallyworld NeverStart in it from the previous owner. Amazingly enough, it's a 6 year old battery that still is holding good voltage, but I think I'm going to pull one of my Interstate's out of the Burb and try that. So it's back under the truck:(. Oh, and Happy Independence Day to everybody out there!

07-04-2009, 11:14 AM	#8
semocoachworks Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: rapid city, sd Posts: 420	Hey showme. I used to have a shop in the back of the old pepsi plant in leadington. The front was an antique shop. Anyway, here is a link to put a ford solenoid on the truck and it eliminates the wiring getting hot and getting hard to start. In your case, it may make it a whole lot easier to work on on the firewall. You might also check the adjustment of the actual ignition switch on top of the steering column up under the dash. There are 2 screws that hold the adjustmentment tight. You can loosen the screws and slide the switch up or down on the column. In your case, if your losing power, you would have to slide it up. You have your key switch and tumbler, then a rod that runs down the top of the column to this switch.

07-04-2009, 04:10 PM	#9
showme Full Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Park Hills, Missouri Posts: 11	Thanks, scw. I'll check that, because I DID replace the neutral safety switch, and I might have moved something I shouldn't have when doing it. But that was before I put the wire on the wrong post, and I had full power, (except to the starter) then. Unless you're saying it would have stopped the power to the starter. (??) Would it have done anything with the ign. button wire on the other (R) post? BTW, how'd you end up in SD? I know exactly where your shop was. Never knew it was back there, but I know where the old Pepsi plant and the antique store were. I was raised in Flat River, now rehabbing a house in Elvins, across from the old Elvins high school , aka West Elementary now. Thanks again for the tip. I always have Vicki Phillips rebuild my starters and alt's, so I'm pretty certain everything is ok. I still haven't changed out the wire to the starter, since it ohmed out ok. The guy I bought it from was a decent mechanic, and the wire is good 10ga auto wire. I'm a little concerned about my fuse box, though. When the starter acted up, I had driven it about 10 minutes, shut it off for just a second, then turned it back on so I could check my tranny oil level at a gas station. It took off whining like a banshee (not engaged), and it took me probably 45 seconds to get out and disconnect the battery cable to shut it off. I think it fried, at least, the fuse socket that the starter button was plugged into. Hence, the reason I was asking if anyone had any opinion on the Bosch relay (or any other that would work) I just need to get it back on the road and functional! THanks again! Lee