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Old 07-06-2009, 09:15 AM   #1
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Replacing rear brakes on 1983 GMC 1-ton dually

How difficult is it to replace the rear brakes on a 1983 GMC one-ton dually? Do I need to pull the axles? Can anyone point me to a diagram? Thanks.

Last edited by TomPiantanida; 07-06-2009 at 09:17 AM. Reason: Incorrect year
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Old 07-06-2009, 11:28 AM   #2
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yea just did mine yesterday, dang i shoulda made photos of step by step!

Yes you have to remove axles, then remove a a retainer ring that holds a key (that keeps the nut from loosening) the nut shouldn`t be really tight (in fact it should loosen easily) once the nut is removed you can pull the drum/hub assy off (it will be quite heavy on your application!) if it doesn`t come off easily you may have to back off the adjuster. with the drum off you can remove the small clip that holds the park brake arm on the shoe, push it out of the shoe. Then remove the shoe springs from the top anchor (best done with a proper tool) then you can remove the spring retainers that hold the shoes to the backing plate, the shoes with most of the hardware should come off at this point (they will be held together with the spring at the bottom) then on a bench you can swap over the harware to the new shoes. clean of the backing plates and lube the points were the shoes contact, plus anti-sieze the adjuster. then its pretty much re-install as it was taken appart, make sure the the pins in the brake cylinder end up on the shoes once installed and everything. it may help to take a photo of the shoes piror to removal as somethings can easily be installed incorrectly. also when installing the drum/hub assy be careful not to wreck the seal, for setting up the nut tighten it all the way (if you don`t have the proper socket you could use a pin...or anything that works.) when the nut is tight spin the hub/drum, see if it spins freely, then try to tighten nut again. at this point you will loosen the nut back untill the next opening is available to put the key in, install the retainer, at this point it is easiest to set up the shoes (because the axle isnt in the drum rotates freely) then use some silicon on the axle and put her in, should be torqued to 110ft/lbs

Are you replacing the drums? probly not cause the are $$$$! getting them turned would be much more affordable. but if so you will need to press out the studs seperate the drum from rotor clean and reassemble (re-press in studs)

I highly recommend replacing the axle seals while you are in they are ususally cheap and then you can inspect/clean/lube the bearings before re-assembly.

Any other questions let us know!
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Last edited by stumpuller454; 07-07-2009 at 07:07 AM. Reason: grammar correction...thanks crab! lol
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Old 07-10-2009, 07:15 AM   #3
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Thank you, Stumpuller454. The job went just like you said it would. Heavy, but not difficult.
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Old 07-10-2009, 12:26 PM   #4
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Good to here man!
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:26 PM   #5
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Nice job ! To both you guys !
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