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Old 11-06-2009, 10:04 PM   #31
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I am not so sure I call 100,000, a high mileage engine in todays engines. I would probably still run the manufactures reccomended 5w-30. And to be on the safe side and not get to heavy if felt the need to change, maybe a 10w-30, but that would be the max I'd go. JMO
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:32 PM   #32
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If yall want some info on filters check this out. Its anouther part of the reasons i switched from fram to mobil 1.

Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources


(If yall are getting tired of hearing about me switching just say the word and i will be quiet)
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:19 AM   #33
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I use high mileage Castrol in my truck I have always used Castol but now that it has 169,000 plus miles on it I use high mileage. Now on our older MPV it's the only oil that will keep the HLA's from making noise.
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Old 11-07-2009, 09:03 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crmzendrgone View Post
really? Thats what I was told. Plus the difference in addititves could eventually harm the seals. Again that is what I was told.
The problem with better additives is that they tend to cut the junk in your engine loose. After changing to synthetic I always change oil and filter the first time in about 2 or 3 k .
Also on an older engine there may be grime around seals and gaskets that the better oil will clean away. Often this is what has kept poor gaskets and seals from leaking.

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Old 11-07-2009, 11:40 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by scavanger View Post
The problem with better additives is that they tend to cut the junk in your engine loose. After changing to synthetic I always change oil and filter the first time in about 2 or 3 k .
Also on an older engine there may be grime around seals and gaskets that the better oil will clean away. Often this is what has kept poor gaskets and seals from leaking.

Scav.
So that is what I mean are you reading my jumbled up thoughts and putting them in plain english for others to understand Well I tried to give you(scavanger) a rep point but I guess I did once already but thanks for clearing my thoughts up again.
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:45 PM   #36
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i are having brain problem ... pleez xplane weights. haha i completely forget what the numbers mean
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukasmcdukas View Post
i are having brain problem ... pleez xplane weights. haha i completely forget what the numbers mean

its really simple, for example

10w30

10 is the wt of the oil in cold weather

30 is the wt of the oil in hot weather
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K&N FIPK Cold Air Intake
Rebuilt Motor (should have gone 350) and Trans

05 Nissan Xterra 4.0 V6
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:10 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyley87 View Post
its really simple, for example

10w30

10 is the wt of the oil in cold weather

30 is the wt of the oil in hot weather

Only partly true.......
A 10w is the temperature at which the oil will flow at, and the 30 is the actual weight of the oil........ I can get into how they get a 30 weight oil to flow at a colder temperature, if there is enough call for it, but I dont feel like typing that much tonight, and/or boring all of you..... If you want some info, go to Noria's website......

As for what I would run in your truck if it were me, I would go with a good conventional oil..... as some have said, The synthic oil is a natural cleaner..... It will clean the seals up, and sometimes remove the buildup keeping it from leaking........ I have a 1995 with 160,000 on it, and I switched to synthetic, and I developed a rear main seal leak.....
At the high mileage, It can be rough on motors to change over.... Im not saying impossible, or that some havent had great success, and no problems, but, if it were me, I would only switch from one, and go to the other if the truck is over about 80,000 miles or so.......
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