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Thread: Dang Drivers side door wont shut

  1. #1
    Senior Member pearsont74's Avatar
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    Dang Drivers side door wont shut

    ok...my drivers side door wont shut all the way unless i slam it ( obviously dont like doin that unless im mad )
    passangers side door shuts fine.
    I've oiled it hopin that maybe its something dumb like that LOL
    I really dont know how these things function to really troubleshoot it. anyone have a problem like this and a possible fix without buyin a new part

    oh...when it shuts...its shut enough to lock and not open but u can see on the outside its not flush
    Last edited by pearsont74; 11-16-2009 at 01:49 PM. Reason: extra info
    2007 Chevy Z71 ext cab

  2. #2
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    bradrhale's Avatar
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    need to change out the bolt for the latch. it is probably very worn. the mechanism is probably still in great shape and if you oiled it, is doing great. these parts will wear out overtime and require replacement but are relatively inexpensive. however, sagging doors and worn hinges will cause premature failure of this part.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Ninja_Lawn_Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bradrhale View Post
    need to change out the bolt for the latch. it is probably very worn. the mechanism is probably still in great shape and if you oiled it, is doing great. these parts will wear out overtime and require replacement but are relatively inexpensive. however, sagging doors and worn hinges will cause premature failure of this part.

    I second that

  4. #4
    Senior Member pearsont74's Avatar
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    I did check the hinge and tightened it even though it was very tight.
    Not quite sure what and where this bolt is.
    2007 Chevy Z71 ext cab

  5. #5
    Senior Member Ninja_Lawn_Guy's Avatar
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    the piece that the latch grabs when you shut the door..on the body panel.

    sometimes latch sticks shut, but you can slam it closed....could be latch itself..

  6. #6
    Senior Member pearsont74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ninja_Lawn_Guy View Post
    the piece that the latch grabs when you shut the door..on the body panel.

    sometimes latch sticks shut, but you can slam it closed....could be latch itself..
    Im thinkin the latch it the cause. i know the day i sprayed WD40 on it and played with it abit it was shutting fine.
    is it easier to just get a new one and swpa it out? ill need to research on the cost of a new one
    2007 Chevy Z71 ext cab

  7. #7
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    I had the same problem. WD40 only lasted a day or so. Turned out to be the hinge pin bushings. Get the door shut tight. Then open the door from the outside while watching how the body lines on the door compare to the cab. See if the door seems to lower when you open it. If so, it's probably the bushings in the hinges. It's very common for these to wear as the door is so heavy. You could also lower your window and lift up on the door while closing it to see if that works. A worn striker bolt on the cab is also a sign of bad bushings.....Matt
    '94 Chevy Silverado Z71
    Xtra cab 4x4 350cid
    4l60e auto

  8. #8
    Senior Member BernieB's Avatar
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    Check those hinge pins and bushings as they're very prone to wear. They're also fairly easy to replace and most auto parts places carry the repair kits (under the Help brand).

    If the pins and bushings are okay then the door strike bolt is probably misaligned. You'll need a large Torx (I can't remember the size offhand - I'll post it later when I check mine out in the shop) to loosen it (older models may use a hex) and adjust the position.

    If the strike bolt shows visible wear (gouges or out of round) then replace it, but you'll have to take off some interior trim to get at the back side and hold the plate it screws into in place. Older strike bolts had a plastic sleeve that fit on the shaft, but newer replacements don't use it (they just made the bolt a little fatter) so don't be surprised if the replacement doesn't have it, it'll still work.

    Also, use a good lube for the latch mechanism and strike bolt, not WD-40. White lithium works well (Lubriplate is good) and use something like Superlube (Teflon grease or spray) on the hinge pins and bushings.

    The easiest way to see if the bolt moved is just to look at the paint around the washer. If it moved you'll see it there (paint might be worn away, or you'll see a circle where it used to be).

    If you get tempted to just change the hinges themselves be aware that in later models (not sure what year it started) the hinges are welded to the frame, and the welds will have to be drilled out before the hinge comes off. The new hinges will have bolts to hold them on.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member pearsont74's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BernieB View Post
    Check those hinge pins and bushings as they're very prone to wear. They're also fairly easy to replace and most auto parts places carry the repair kits (under the Help brand).

    If the pins and bushings are okay then the door strike bolt is probably misaligned. You'll need a large Torx (I can't remember the size offhand - I'll post it later when I check mine out in the shop) to loosen it (older models may use a hex) and adjust the position.

    If the strike bolt shows visible wear (gouges or out of round) then replace it, but you'll have to take off some interior trim to get at the back side and hold the plate it screws into in place. Older strike bolts had a plastic sleeve that fit on the shaft, but newer replacements don't use it (they just made the bolt a little fatter) so don't be surprised if the replacement doesn't have it, it'll still work.

    Also, use a good lube for the latch mechanism and strike bolt, not WD-40. White lithium works well (Lubriplate is good) and use something like Superlube (Teflon grease or spray) on the hinge pins and bushings.

    The easiest way to see if the bolt moved is just to look at the paint around the washer. If it moved you'll see it there (paint might be worn away, or you'll see a circle where it used to be).

    If you get tempted to just change the hinges themselves be aware that in later models (not sure what year it started) the hinges are welded to the frame, and the welds will have to be drilled out before the hinge comes off. The new hinges will have bolts to hold them on.
    Good info...Ive looked at the hidges and they are tight...and firm...and welded LOL I tried to gently lilt up on the door abit to see if theres any play and theres none at all...so its either in the stricker bolt or the latch mech...I used WD40 for that time being until i could go get some greese for that. Its more of an annoyance then a problem I dont like slamming doors to get them to shut
    2007 Chevy Z71 ext cab

  10. #10
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    wd 40 is NOT a good choice for locks etc, use something like pb blaster, 50-5, and give it a good flushing, sounds like the dirt and grim has it all bound up!( kinda like old folks)
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