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Thread: Oil Leak - 94 k1500 350 cu. in

  1. #1
    Full Member mwoodster5's Avatar
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    Exclamation Oil Leak - 94 k1500 350 cu. in

    Im a little new to this forum but ill try and get acquainted here.
    I have a 94 gmc 1500 that i recently purchased and it leaks oil. I found the source of the problem from the lower oil cool line but am wondering somethings in relation to that fix.
    The pictures explain progress.. I have the top line removed and the filter adapter unbolted and almost ready for removal. I unbolted the lower end of the strut brace on engine/trans to allow more playing room, however not enough. I see that i must lower the front drive shaft to do so. I am wondering if i need to re-grease the u-joint in the flange after removal and once i install.


    Underneath view fliter unbolted with front end shaft in way.. DO I RE-GREASE?


    The other thing i was wondering is which gaskets/o-rings go where? i realized the odd shaped one is for the egr valve, but what about the rest? I know the oil cooler lines i bought came with their o-rings and plastic clip ins but not sure bout rest. if i even need them.


    Also here is a picture of the new lines i purchased and the good stuff Castrol GTX lol..




    Appreciate any help that can be given! Thanks

  2. #2
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    greasing it wont hurt anything.

  3. #3
    Full Member mwoodster5's Avatar
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    Oil Leak - 94 k1500 350 cu. in

    Okay, but more importantly do i have to re-grease? And what about the o-rings and gaskets..which ones are used for where? should i just size compare them?

  4. #4
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    Welcome to the forum mwoodster5.

    Just finished that job on that truck.
    Use the hard gasket 2nd row left with three round circles.
    My eyes are telling me the 3rd (right) is also needed.
    The orange gasket from bottom row looks like original style, but too small ?
    black tube style from bottom row looks like dealer kit gasket.
    obvious easy fit for right size. Both go on top of filter adapter.

    Do not need to "drop" shaft. Unbolt u-joint and slide to left, plenty room.
    you will need to compress backwards in it's sleeve about 1"
    regrease the fitting after with grease gun on zerk.

    But all that is only if you want to drop adapter.
    Both lines can be released and replaced without touching anything else.
    Except for easier access to line clamp, remove the lower air "skid" plate.

    I needed to replace the adapter gaskets so went all the way in.
    There are some pics in my thread and I have plenty other available.
    Removing Oil Filter Adapter 1994 k1500 5.7
    Also good reading:
    92 K1500 oil cooler connector question
    oil cooler lines

    I also like these pics, just me.
    Oil Leak - 1991 K1500 5.7L
    .

    Please don't PM truck fix questions, bravely start a new thread for them. It is a forum afterall.

  5. #5
    Full Member mwoodster5's Avatar
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    Exclamation Oil Leak - 94 k1500 350 cu. in

    So that info was very usefull So far i was able to do everything needed for that job. Here are some pictures of everything hooked up and what not. Thanks for the help i will for sure be needing more of it!

    Here is the filter adapter all cleaned, o-ringed and gasketed up.


    Underneath cleaned up a little


    Concerning the u-joint on the front end... i cant seem to find the grease zerk.. Anyone kno exactly where it is on the flange?

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    Right where you squeezed the grease out by compression.
    .

    .
    Whoops, think the arrow points the other way.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Please don't PM truck fix questions, bravely start a new thread for them. It is a forum afterall.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwoodster5 View Post
    Im a little new to this forum but ill try and get acquainted here.
    I have a 94 gmc 1500 that i recently purchased and it leaks oil. I found the source of the problem from the lower oil cool line but am wondering somethings in relation to that fix.
    The pictures explain progress.. I have the top line removed and the filter adapter unbolted and almost ready for removal. I unbolted the lower end of the strut brace on engine/trans to allow more playing room, however not enough. I see that i must lower the front drive shaft to do so. I am wondering if i need to re-grease the u-joint in the flange after removal and once i install.
    [IMG]http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/100_0373.jpg[/IMG]

    Underneath view fliter unbolted with front end shaft in way.. DO I RE-GREASE?
    [IMG]http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/100_0363.jpg[/IMG]

    The other thing i was wondering is which gaskets/o-rings go where? i realized the odd shaped one is for the egr valve, but what about the rest? I know the oil cooler lines i bought came with their o-rings and plastic clip ins but not sure bout rest. if i even need them.
    [IMG]http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/100_0385.jpg[/IMG]

    Also here is a picture of the new lines i purchased and the good stuff Castrol GTX lol..
    [IMG]http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/100_0378.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/s...5/100_0379.jpg[/IMG]


    Appreciate any help that can be given! Thanks

    Ok I'm new here also, I have the same problem on my 94. But I don't have the cooler lines, weird, anyway WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE GASKETS!!!!! I have been looking for a week now and am about to pull my hair out. I don't want to take the adapter off and have a truck thats not drivable. I do on the other hand have a small body lift I believe and that takes away the front axle problem. (I just bought the truck) Sorry I couldn't help, just looking for a little help myself! Thanks

  8. #8
    Senior Member
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    Welcome to the forum rltw375.

    The two gaskets in kit from dealer for sealing the adapter to block should cost around $8.
    See the links in post #4 above for links to more info on this project, easier than some think.

    You may be the victim of a prior owners thinking, many just remove cooler lines and then
    plug lines from adapter when they leak. Not a good idea in my opinion to abandon cooler.
    Probably could get away with it if light driving in mild temp city, otherwise fix it.

    Dropping the "skid plate" in front (4 bolts) makes easy access to cooler pipe clamp,
    and routing hose ends to cooler/rad.
    Removing u-joint clamps (4 bolts) gives extra room for pipes to get in since they
    have several bends to align along route. Your lift may save you that, but I'm sure
    you'll see pretty fast when trying to reach in there. No need to remove shaft,
    just move end a little out of way.
    I removed the end of brace strut to trans, but may be able to get around if not.

    Let us know where you find your gaskets.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Oldmech's Avatar
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    Nice job Crab

  10. #10
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    Thanks crab, I have a 2500 light duty (weird I know) which has no oil cooler lines or cooler. So I'll contact the dealer today.

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