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Old 04-08-2009, 10:10 AM   #11
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oh almost forgot- if you have very large holes after grinding, use pieces of screen mesh to cover the hole and bondo right over it- think of it as adding rebar to concrete. it helps you get the shape you need without globbing the bondo into your door. oh and uh... keep your door open while you work so you dont accidentally bondo your door shut haha. make sure you get the inside lip of the door, too!
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Old 04-08-2009, 10:31 AM   #12
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Rust will always come back it's like cancer unless you cut it out and place new metal.
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:47 AM   #13
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no argument there, but this will buy him a few years to save up for those ridiculously overpriced door shells and keep his ride looking decent while he waits. Massachusetts requires any hole larger than a quarter to be repaired before passing inspection, if my memory serves me. better to fill it with 100 bucks worth of bondo and paint than blow 1500 bucks on new doors, or close to that in welded repairs (in which case he'd have to bondo over anyway, or pay out the a$$ to have it done for you). get the new doors when you can afford em, til then, bondo and some paint'll get you by just fine.
NOTE: I agree that this IS a temporary solution, while new doors are a more permanent fix. however, he said he can't really afford new, so this is a good "in the meantime" fix. plus its a very quick, easy, cheap project and can be done in a small garage (or outside, though i wouldnt recommend it).
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Old 04-09-2009, 09:52 AM   #14
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og25 makes a good point too about LMC Truck. does LMC do finish colors? I think they only come primed, in which case, you'd still be breakin out the painting equip. still, 200 a pop is much better than 750.
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Old 04-09-2009, 01:28 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by gmctrucks View Post
Rust will always come back it's like cancer unless you cut it out and place new metal.
what he said , it's so easy to make your own patch panals , next month watch for my post on making cab corner part 2 , should hav my mig changed over to gas by then .

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Old 04-09-2009, 02:32 PM   #16
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You guys talk about fixing rust, like I talk about rebuilding a trans. I wish I could get into doing body work. I just figured it has to be done by someone who has lots of patience and artisitic. I am far from artisitic, have a few more patience now that I am older but just don't feel confident about rust or body work. Of course confidnece is 75% of doing anything in my opinion. Trans and motors are easy. Just put things where they go and don't forget anythnig and all is good.
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Old 04-09-2009, 03:14 PM   #17
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Hey hichory, here's another option for you. Do a search for sherman body parts, they have lower door skins for your truck for $46. If the lower lip of the door is still solid you can cut off the old panel and weld on the new. If there is moulding on the door you may be able to make the cut along that line and hide your welds under the moulding. That will save a lot of bondo work. If you have never done any panel work before this is a great excuse to learn. Good luck!
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:52 PM   #18
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Lmc doors

Has anybody used the lmc doors,I was just curious on how good they fit?
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Old 04-09-2009, 04:57 PM   #19
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Here is a set of 94 doors in Shawnee, OK for $100. For both right and left.
81-87 & 88-98 CHEVY TRUCK PARTS
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Old 04-09-2009, 05:33 PM   #20
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Welcome to the Forum....... I ordered door shells for my 78 ford and they fit perfect..... no modifications at all...... now just to find paint..........
I also want to see some pictures....... cause we might have the same truck, and Im wanting to know what mine would look like with a 6inch lift.
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