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Mazda Truck Forum - Mazda trucks, etc |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: I live in south central PA, but grew up in Maine
Posts: 2,152
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the oil pan would go with it, would still have the same perdicament as he is in now. He needs to remove those bolts so he can finish it. Lifting the motor and the trans will simply add to the work load, not help I do not think.
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Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? ![]() ![]() ![]() OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift ![]() 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 9
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I have tried vice grips with no luck..
The metal on the bolts is extremely soft and seems to be easily rounded. I guess this is what happens when these have never been messed with after 16 years. Lifting the engine would allow me to bypass the front axle at least and and at this point I am running out of ideas to be honest. For those that are interested here are a couple of pics of the now famous bolts.. I only have 160,000 miles on this thing and hope to keep it going at least one more year! ![]() |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: I live in south central PA, but grew up in Maine
Posts: 2,152
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now see, i was even more consfused then I thought! Those look like the main bolts for the wheel hub assembly! I believe those are reverse(cross) threaded my friend, try turning them the other way! Might work! And now that I know where you are at, lifting the motor might now be a bad idea if those will not budge!
but first, how bad is the leak? I know of a product, I forget what it is called, but added to the oil, it will stop little leaks like that. Run it with it for like 50-50 miles, Then change the oil. So do not add right after an oil change. Might save you some headaches, and keep this truck alive long enough for you to perhaps trade out of it in a year or two..... might be something to try.
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Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? ![]() ![]() ![]() OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift ![]() 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,180
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woah woah woah..... i'm confused, are you trying to take the hubs off? why not just disconnect the front d-shaft, and just unbolt the front axle from the springs/shocks/brake lines/ steering components and remove the entire axle. it seems like you're trying to break the axle down
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99 suburban xlt 96 silverado 91 wrangler (my baby )
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Maybe I misread my manuals and Alldata.com, I thought the hub needed to be removed in order to do remove the front differential assembly/axle. I am certainly not a mechanic (as I am sure it is evident) but have been able to do things that I think I can handle successfully most of the time.I also like a challenge and rather do it myself if I can. Should I be able to do this without removing the free wheel hub assembly? The manuals I have (Chilton, Haynes) seem to differ but maybe I am misreading them. BTW, is it typical for wheel hub assemblies to be reverse threaded? If so, why? I'm not sure if that is the case in my situation but I am interested in knowing the answer. Thanks again to all of you for the replies and sorry for the confusion generated by someone like me who is not a pro mechanic! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: I live in south central PA, but grew up in Maine
Posts: 2,152
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You know I was thinking about this, and Camino is right, you should not have to remove the hubs for this..... And I think I added to the confusion here. Anyways, we can start over. LOL....
As for the reverse threading, it is due to the constant rotation of the wheel. Although now I am confused again cuz I think I am thinking of the 4wd hub and the center assembly. So forget that and lets move on..... I say step back and take another look at this. I would hate to see you post this truck in the classifieds....lol....
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Lets get some mud on the tires...eh?!?!? ![]() ![]() ![]() OWN: 1998 Chevy Blazer ls 4x4 4.3l Vortec V6 1998 Mazda B3000 SE 4WD 3.0L V6 3" lift ![]() 31x10.50 Liberator A/T's |
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#19 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: michigan
Posts: 3,201
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Quote:
this link will help: </title></head>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<body><div align='center'><img " + getWidth("yes") + "src='/images/cds/" + tpe + "/" + sze + "/" + pc + "." + tpe + "'></img></div>"); newWindow.document.writeln("<div align='center'><table><tr><td><FORM the engine will need to be supported with an engine hoist or jack stands.
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proud member of the 200k mile club |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Lincoln NE
Posts: 432
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I still dont konw why you cant just take the motor mounts loose and jack up the motor a couple of inches to clear whatever the pan is catching on? Iv'e done this on a bunch of GM cars and never had to drain any coolant and if your taking off the oil pan you should already have that drained.
I just take a good block of wood put it underneath the harmonic balancer and jack it up after the motor mounts are loose. but I have never had to change an oil pan gasket on a mazda before but it seems to me that in theroy it should work.
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"She's gonna Freak when she see's my wheels" 85' Chevy C-10 Longbox (Rat) TBI 5.7 Liter/THM350 90' Chevy Suburban 4x4 TBI 350 Cu.In./700R4 http://www.truckforum.org/forums/truck-pictures-176.htm |
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