Diagnostic codes...check engine light blinking??

[spacoli]

Hi to all.

I had a TPS code coming up on my 93 PU 22re. So I changed the TPS with another off a used motor I had and got the same code (41).

So I took the battery teminals of for a 10 min and re-checked it. Now when I jump the terminals the check engine light blinks constantly.

Whats up with this blinking, is it normal? Thanks

[mudseeker]

maybe let the computer get a couple drive cycles under it's belt and see if it clears the code itself?

sorry, don't work on many toyota's.

[spacoli]

Originally Posted by mudseeker

maybe let the computer get a couple drive cycles under it's belt and see if it clears the code itself?

sorry, don't work on many toyota's.

I had an answer on another forum. They said that is meaning "no codes" when it's blinking like that and everthing is fine.

Thanks.

[junior3382]

When you jump it yeah, but how I understand it, it is just flashing when it is running, not when you jump it, right?

[spacoli]

Originally Posted by junior3382

When you jump it yeah, but how I understand it, it is just flashing when it is running, not when you jump it, right?

When jumped and not running. I guess I didn't mention that it wasn't running.

[junior3382]

Originally Posted by spacoli

When jumped and not running. I guess I didn't mention that it wasn't running.

Then yeah. that means no new codes. You should be fine. How does it run otherwise?

[spacoli]

Originally Posted by junior3382

Then yeah. that means no new codes. You should be fine. How does it run otherwise?

It's running pretty good. I'm trying to get better MPG. I was only getting around 15 mpg over the winter and around 17 -18 mpg in the warmer months.

I realized I changed the o2 and had the TPS unplugged becase I was running it without the TPS becasue of a bad hesitation or cutting out. So the TPS code was stored in the computer. Then I decided to try the plugging in the TPS and running it and it run good. So when the TPS code popped up, I thought I had a problem. I now realize it was just the code stored because it was unplugged. I probably didn't even need to fool with the TPS. Now I'm in the process of trying to adjust it.

Do you have any insight on the TPS adjustment? I'm trying to use these instructions. Copied below.

The only thing I think I'm stuck on is, what does open infinate mean or what valve is this on the ohm meter?

Thanks

Throttle Position Sensor IDL-E2 Adjustment Procedure (courtesy of Frankenyota):

1. Loosen both screws attaching TPS to throttle body.
2. Attach multi-meter to TPS terminals IDL and E2 (the bottom two terminals on the TPS). You can use alligator clips to make this easier or use small ¼” lengths of vacuum hose to hold them on
3. Insert 0.85mm (22RE) or 0.77mm (3VZE) feeler gauge between throttle stop screw and throttle plate (see picture)
4. Move TPS body CW/CCW until ohms reading on multimeter is infinite (open)
5. Move the TPS body very slowly CCW until you find the end of the resistive strip, the meter will indicate <2.3Kohms of resistance
6. Move the TPS body extremely slowly in the CW direction until the meter goes to open/infinite again
7. Tighten the top TPS screw being very careful not to disturb the adjustment
8. Remove the feeler gauge and insert a 0.57mm (22RE) or 0.50mm (3VZE) feeler gauge
9. The meter should (hopefully) indicate between 0 and 2.3Kohms of resistance, if it does tighten the bottom screw and reconnect the electrical connector, if not go back to step 4 and try again
10. To check whether the adjustment was successful start the engine and insert the timing test jumper, if the idle speed decreases audibly it is working normally.

[crabtruck]

Infinite (open) means that the resistance of the circuit being measured
is so high that it is totally off any scale you have to read it, or is in fact
not connected internally (like when there is a break in a wire inside the insulation).
OPEN means not connected, SHORT means connected somewhere it shouldn't be,
like "taking a SHORT cut" in the circuit rather than going all the way around.
For this test I would think anything over 50k is ok for "infinite"

That page has a decent explanation of the use of the ohm meter for this.
Note that he is using a meter with scales for ohms, some don't have scales.
Note further that the scale shown in picture is just high enough to get the right readings
for his meter when set at 20k and would show anything over 20k as "infinite".
When using the ohm meter, if it is one that allows you to choose a scale for ohms,
you should pick one for this test that is above 5k (5,000) but no higher above that than needed.

If your ohm meter has only one choice, it will auto range to get the reading.
The reading may look like "2.3-k" or 2,300 ohms, same thing different scales.
Be sure you know which things work for ohm readings on your particular meter
or you will drive yourself nuts. You can check you reading ability of the meter
by measuring a spark plug wire you have laying around, those will commonly
measure in the thousands so you can see what that looks like.

[spacoli]

Thanks, I'm going to give it a try tonight again now that I understand a little better. I had my meter set to 20k when doing it before, I just didn't know what open/infinate reading was suposed to be.

Thanks