![]() | ![]() |
| | |||||||
| Toyota Truck Forum - Toyota pickup truck forum, etc. |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #11 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vermont
Posts: 73
| Yes its boiling out the of the radiator my son said that it was building a lot of back pressure , after about 10 mins of running it it went straight to the red line on the temp gauge and started boiling out of the radiator it was even trying to come out of the seems of the radiator tank ! i don't really think its the water pump i have been told it would make noise and i would know it ? plus it seemed to be flowing through the radiator so that would make me think the pump is working , i don't see any signs of coolent on the dipstick or running out of the block anywheres , my son works on a lot of subarus and said that the way this toyota is acting is just like a bad head gasket on a subaru thats why i keep thinking or saying its the head gasket but to me with no signs of it in the oil makes me think its something else , i don't think we put the t-stat in backwards but with my luck i could have ! i was also told that i should run a oem t-stat ( which i didn't) but was wondering what you guys thought if i tryed it with out a t-stat in it ? without one in it if there was something else wrong it would still boil over right ? also after we ran it for 10 mins it still didn't push out any heat . Thanks for the help and keep it coming ! |
| | |
| | #12 |
| Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas
Posts: 8,024
| you wont always here a water pump when failing. if it is bubbling as bad as you claim, than you do have a problem and a serious one at that. before diagnosing this as a head gasket problem, do a compression test. let hold for a few minutes on each cylinder and see if any one cylinder pressure drops rapidly. remove all the plugs and turn the crank by hand to keep pressure in each cylinder that you are testing. |
| | |
| | #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| SO is this happening instantly, like on a cold motor, or is this boiling over after is has overheated. Normal for overheating to boil over. I mean when motor is cold. You first start it up, then it will immediatly start bubbling, then you have a cracked head, not a blown head gasket. As Brad suggested, do a compresson test, but do not be suprised if compression is good too. The head crack can be in the exhaust port behind the valve, which is past the combustion chamber, therefore compression test could still show good. Let it get cold, like from sitting overnight. Take the radiator cap off, and start it up. IF it immediatly starts bubbling, start looking for a head.
__________________ Winners NEVER Quit , Quitters NEVER Win !!! |
| | |
| | #14 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| Oh, and don't think what you been told is correct either about the water pump being bad. I am leaning more toward waterpump now too, that I reread your post and you say it takes 10 minutes to overheat, and you say you can see water flowing thru the radiator. Water will flow thru the water pump just by overheating as the water heats, it expands and it will move. You will NOT always know a water pump has gone bad. They can out differant ways. Many times the shaft bearing will go bad and that, yes you will know. Or the bearing race in the pump will rust through, and it will leak coolant out a pressure hole around the bearing race. Not sure all water pumps have that, but most I have seen do. That is another way they can go bad. Those 2 ways you will KNOW yes the water pump has gone bad. If the pump impeller has broke off the shaft, the bearing could still be good and you would NOT that until you took the pump off. Also the impeller could be seized and the shaft is spinning inside the impeller. Just don't rule it out as of yet, and go getting expensive. First do the compression test and see what the results are. Next would be to remove the water pump and hope for it to be bad. If its good, well, not loss, it had to come off to change the head anyway.
__________________ Winners NEVER Quit , Quitters NEVER Win !!! |
| | |
| | #15 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vermont
Posts: 73
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #16 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| Here is my thinking on it. If you are certain you are keeping the truck and its worth the repair of a head and head gasket to you. I would get a new water pump. Try it. If it fixes the problem, then great. If not, then you pull the head, and have it checked. I would not replace just the gasket, because I have a feeling, if the water pump is NOT the issue, I am more to believe a cracked head than head gasket. I would say straight up, if its taking 10 minutes, it not a cracked head. But, when you have a crack in a head, even with a cool motor, the crack is not very profound. It will widen as the motor heats up. Then again, the part that makes me think it is NOT a cracked head, if it is building up that much pressure in the cooling system, you'd think that pressure would over power the exhaust gases going out the tailpipe, since it should take path of least resistance, therefore, I'd think you will have steam or smoke out the tailpipe. So I am back to thinking the simple matter. It can still be a water pump. All you will be out is the cost of the water pump and some labor if its the head or gasket, and nothing wrong with knowing the water pump and thermostat are new after having a head reworked and a new headgasket.
__________________ Winners NEVER Quit , Quitters NEVER Win !!! |
| | |
| | #17 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vermont
Posts: 73
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #18 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,420
| If you can another way to tell if you have a head gasket gone bad smell the exhaust itself it it smells sweet then you know it has a leak. I know there is many ways to tell if it has a head gasket leak. Barrow/Buy a pressure tester put in on the radiator DO NOT PUMP IT UP. Start the engine let it run and see if it gains pressure fast if it does then you have a head gasket leak like hotrod said where exhaust gas is getting into the cooling system. The other is a block tester. I think any parts store should caring them it is a liquid form of a sneefer like Hotrod mentioned. It has a tube with a rubber end on it to seal it to the the rad. you pour in the chemical to the fill line(test should be done when engine is at operating temp) and if there is any exhaust gas in the cooling system then it will change from blue to yellow.Did you figure out if your fans are working I think Brad mentioned to check your fans but I didn't see if you checked them. Another way to tell if the water pump is bad if possible turn the heat on in you truck and check the temp of the air coming off of it. If it is say 20 degrees cooler than were the engines temp operates at then your water pump can not flow enough coolant pass the heater core, thus bad pump. I agree with Hotrod about not hearing the pump go bad. I had a town and country come in with a leaking water pump replaced it with a factory pump came back 2days later with it overheating. Found now leaks looked everywhere else with the cooling system cause the pump was just put in new. finally pulled the pump and the impeller grenaded so there was no flow. Hope this helps
__________________ ENGINES PRODUCE POWER. MOTORS RECEIVE POWER.![]() https://lastroundbestround.com/Home_Page.html |
| | |
| | #19 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 3,149
| As far as pumps go, I have never had a problem with a reman pump. I'd think the only differance in a reman or OEM, is that the OEM may last longer. For this project and purpose that you may be buying a water pump that may not be the problem, I'd probably get one of the cheaper lifetime remans at an Auto Zone or some discount auto part store near you. I am past the idea of it being a blown head gasket. I am thinking if its not the water pump, its a cracked head, which is a bit harder to diagnose becaue like I said, if its cracked in the exhaust port behind a closed valve, your compression test, block pressure test and all cylinder tests will come back good. I am reffering to a crack behind the valve on the exhaust manifold side of the head past the compustion chamber. But, still if that were the case, you'd think you'd get steam or something out the tailpipe. I still lean more toward water pump.
__________________ Winners NEVER Quit , Quitters NEVER Win !!! |
| | |
| | #20 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Vermont
Posts: 73
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
| | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| 85 SR5 Toyota overheating | Retad13 | Toyota Truck Forum | 11 | 10-06-2009 07:54 PM |
| overheating | nightcrawler09 | Nissan Truck Forum | 9 | 07-29-2009 07:29 AM |
| Overheating | bradrhale | General Truck Forum | 26 | 10-23-2008 11:55 AM |
| gmc sierra overheating? | gmcsierra | GMC Truck Forum | 18 | 07-14-2007 07:53 PM |
| overheating | 396chevy | Chevy Truck Forum | 5 | 05-23-2006 08:16 PM |