93 toyota pu 4cyl knocking and squealing???

spacoli · 09-30-2006, 04:46 AM

A buddy of mine has a 93 4wd pick up with 130,000 in pretty good shape. One day after work he started it and it was knocking and squealing out of the blue. He shut it off and had it towed to his house, it has been sitting there for two years, he never looked into what was wrong. He said it aways ran good, did not use any oil, just minor usual problems (starter,fuel pump both replaced).

I plan on buying it from him Monday for $500. What do you think the knocking and squealling noise is? I'm hoping it's just the bottom end bearings. If not I plan on getting a short or long block for in it worse case.
I will have a decent truck for $2000.

I'm no car mechanic, but I have changed engines in the past and I'm confident I can do this.
I have been doing research on remanufactured engines, anything special I should be looking for?
Any ideas or info on getting this truck on the road would be appreciated.

mudseeker · 09-30-2006, 05:56 AM

i would go for the short block mainly because of the miles and it sitting for a few years. it will save you some money that way since you can switch over your topend instead of buying new heads and such. also you should have the heads checked out by a machine shop if you go this route.

mochester · 09-30-2006, 11:55 AM

that's a trip...a 22re breaking down at 130k miles

Ford4x4Chik27 · 09-30-2006, 11:13 PM

I highly doubt it's as serious as needing a new motor. Why don't you take it to a mechanic and for $90 get a diagnostic rather than spend $1500 on something you THINK is wrong? That 22RE will go for twice that long without needing a rebuild... I've never heard of one goin that fast

spacoli · 10-01-2006, 04:55 AM

I'm hoping it's something easy. I have read that the timing chain wears a hole somewhere under the cover and allows collant to enter the oil causing damage. I guess this is common because of some plastic chain guide. I plan on removing the valve cover checking the chain, drain the oil and check for water in the oil. If all that looks good. Then look else where. I do have allot of good mechanics and friends close to me, that will not even charge me for a diagnois. Can the oil pan be dropped on this engine? Thanks

spacoli · 10-06-2006, 05:06 AM

Here is a link to the knocking sound. At first I held the recorder down underneath the truck, if you listen you can here when I move it to the top under the hood.
http://media.putfile.com/Toyota-engine-knocking
The truck took a little to get started, but once it did it starts right up. It seems to idle well, other than the knocking. After running it I checked the dipstick and the oil seemed a little milky.
So what is it?
I taked to a guy today that has done some work for me before and I can trust that he will do the job right. He is a very experianced mechanic and works on the side at his house. He said he would pull the old engine and install the new or used engine for $400. Is that a good deal.
Thanks

bradrhale · 10-06-2006, 07:59 AM

if you got "milky" oil, you could have some potentially fatal problems. that is a sign of water in your lubrication system. dont know if installing an engine is worth 400. i guess it would be. a yota engine is not hard to replace. very light light weight, comparitively speaking. and its a 93.

spacoli · 10-06-2006, 08:54 AM

Thanks for your reply.
I have pulled and replaced engines in a older subaru once before. I'm in no hurry and I do have more help avaivible with an engine hoist. I might just do it myself and put the money saved towards other parts while the engine is out (clutch,ect.)

spacoli · 10-07-2006, 04:00 AM

I started today and have it just about ready to come out. I think the worst was the wiring. Pulling all those wires though the intake manifold and the wiring that goes back to the tranny and transfer case. It should be a real pain getting them all back in and going to the right spot. Some went up, back, down, across, oh ya fun,fun,fun. Overall II think it went well. I did an online parts request for a engine and received about 7 responses. One is 55 miles away, 93,000 miles on it and a cost of $600.

I do have some questions and see photos below. Is this where I should disconect the fuel line (4th pic)? How do I get the 2 17mm bolts out of the upper bell housing right next to the firewall (2nd & 3rd pic)? I realy didn't try hard, I was done for the day and getting tired. I thought I read somewhere I might be better off taking out the tranny with the engine, is this true?
Picture 5 is what came out of the bottom of the radiator and some of the other low hoses, very oily and sludgy. When I removed the steel elbow that is conected with two hoses from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator, there was a thick oily sludge coming out of it.
What is you take on this cross mixing? Where did the oil and coolant get mixed at? Is it probably under the timing chain cover?

http://www.mytoyotatruck.com/spacoli/

Ford4x4Chik27 · 10-08-2006, 07:42 PM

If your oil and coolant is mixed then most likely you have a blown head gasket. Good luck!!

09-30-2006, 04:46 AM	#1
spacoli Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 21	93 toyota pu 4cyl knocking and squealing??? A buddy of mine has a 93 4wd pick up with 130,000 in pretty good shape. One day after work he started it and it was knocking and squealing out of the blue. He shut it off and had it towed to his house, it has been sitting there for two years, he never looked into what was wrong. He said it aways ran good, did not use any oil, just minor usual problems (starter,fuel pump both replaced). I plan on buying it from him Monday for $500. What do you think the knocking and squealling noise is? I'm hoping it's just the bottom end bearings. If not I plan on getting a short or long block for in it worse case. I will have a decent truck for $2000. I'm no car mechanic, but I have changed engines in the past and I'm confident I can do this. I have been doing research on remanufactured engines, anything special I should be looking for? Any ideas or info on getting this truck on the road would be appreciated.

09-30-2006, 11:13 PM	#4
Ford4x4Chik27 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Sac-Town, Cali Posts: 1,711	I highly doubt it's as serious as needing a new motor. Why don't you take it to a mechanic and for $90 get a diagnostic rather than spend $1500 on something you THINK is wrong? That 22RE will go for twice that long without needing a rebuild... I've never heard of one goin that fast __________________ '93 Isuzu Amigo, Toyota Axles/Tcase/Drivelines, 35" MTR's. '01 Pathy, DD. ************************************ A fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says W T F.....**

10-06-2006, 05:06 AM	#6
spacoli Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 21	Listen to the knocking..... see link to listen Here is a link to the knocking sound. At first I held the recorder down underneath the truck, if you listen you can here when I move it to the top under the hood. http://media.putfile.com/Toyota-engine-knocking The truck took a little to get started, but once it did it starts right up. It seems to idle well, other than the knocking. After running it I checked the dipstick and the oil seemed a little milky. So what is it? I taked to a guy today that has done some work for me before and I can trust that he will do the job right. He is a very experianced mechanic and works on the side at his house. He said he would pull the old engine and install the new or used engine for $400. Is that a good deal. Thanks

10-08-2006, 07:42 PM	#10
Ford4x4Chik27 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Sac-Town, Cali Posts: 1,711	If your oil and coolant is mixed then most likely you have a blown head gasket. Good luck!! __________________ '93 Isuzu Amigo, Toyota Axles/Tcase/Drivelines, 35" MTR's. '01 Pathy, DD. ************************************ A fact of life: After Monday and Tuesday, even the calendar says W T F.....**

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09-30-2006, 05:56 AM	#2
mudseeker Senior Moderator Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: michigan Posts: 7,155	i would go for the short block mainly because of the miles and it sitting for a few years. it will save you some money that way since you can switch over your topend instead of buying new heads and such. also you should have the heads checked out by a machine shop if you go this route.

09-30-2006, 11:55 AM	#3
mochester Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 103	that's a trip...a 22re breaking down at 130k miles

10-01-2006, 04:55 AM	#5
spacoli Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 21	I'm hoping it's something easy. I have read that the timing chain wears a hole somewhere under the cover and allows collant to enter the oil causing damage. I guess this is common because of some plastic chain guide. I plan on removing the valve cover checking the chain, drain the oil and check for water in the oil. If all that looks good. Then look else where. I do have allot of good mechanics and friends close to me, that will not even charge me for a diagnois. Can the oil pan be dropped on this engine? Thanks

10-06-2006, 07:59 AM	#7
bradrhale Senior Moderator Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 9,525	if you got "milky" oil, you could have some potentially fatal problems. that is a sign of water in your lubrication system. dont know if installing an engine is worth 400. i guess it would be. a yota engine is not hard to replace. very light light weight, comparitively speaking. and its a 93.

10-06-2006, 08:54 AM	#8
spacoli Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 21	Thanks for your reply. I have pulled and replaced engines in a older subaru once before. I'm in no hurry and I do have more help avaivible with an engine hoist. I might just do it myself and put the money saved towards other parts while the engine is out (clutch,ect.)

10-07-2006, 04:00 AM	#9
spacoli Full Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 21	I started today and have it just about ready to come out. I think the worst was the wiring. Pulling all those wires though the intake manifold and the wiring that goes back to the tranny and transfer case. It should be a real pain getting them all back in and going to the right spot. Some went up, back, down, across, oh ya fun,fun,fun. Overall II think it went well. I did an online parts request for a engine and received about 7 responses. One is 55 miles away, 93,000 miles on it and a cost of $600. I do have some questions and see photos below. Is this where I should disconect the fuel line (4th pic)? How do I get the 2 17mm bolts out of the upper bell housing right next to the firewall (2nd & 3rd pic)? I realy didn't try hard, I was done for the day and getting tired. I thought I read somewhere I might be better off taking out the tranny with the engine, is this true? Picture 5 is what came out of the bottom of the radiator and some of the other low hoses, very oily and sludgy. When I removed the steel elbow that is conected with two hoses from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator, there was a thick oily sludge coming out of it. What is you take on this cross mixing? Where did the oil and coolant get mixed at? Is it probably under the timing chain cover? http://www.mytoyotatruck.com/spacoli/