The AC cluth on the compressor stopped cycleing on and off and was steady in the ON just before my Heater and the AC stopped blowing altogether. Now nothing happens when i turn on either of them. No air blows at all on either low or high. What could this be? Also i have this swishing sound gurgling under the dash that gets stronger when i accelarate. Also engine overheats when climbing hills or under a load within 10 seconds of going up a steep hill my engine went from 210 all the way past the red line 260. Radiator hoses feel like there is pressure backed up in the system because they are very firm to the touch after driving a distance and when i turn off the engine i start to hear loud popping and boiling type sounds eminating from the coolant lines and im guessing its the pressure that has built up. Im not sure why this is all going on as i just spent $1500 for a mechanic who said that it had a head gasket leak. He took the heads off and sent them into a shop where they resurfaced them. While in the head-shop he told me that i needed to replace my valves so i had them do that too. I had initialy sent it into the shop because i was poofing out clouds of white smoke from the exhaust and i was also having the same issues that im still having with the engine overheating, massive pressure in the coolant hoses, that swishing and boiling sound under the dash while driving and that boiling water sound when i shut the vehicle off. Now two weeks later after the mechanic gave me the vehicle back i am slowly starting to get that white smoke coming from my tail-pipe again, still having cooling issues, now i have NO-HEAT at all meaning that no air blows out of the vents at all, not air conditioning, nothing! And to make matters worse now my engine is idleing very high, to the point that i dont even have to press the gas pedal while going down the road. The idle just will not kick down and this issue was not present before i took it to the mechanic. The mechanic told me that additionaly there had been a code 42 and a code 44 when they checked my ecm for codes. He said that the distributor was replaced due to the fact that somthing was broken on it and he could not proove that it wasnt them who broke it. Also he replaced my fuel pressure regulator thinking that would help, but it didnt, so there was no additional charge to me. I am baffled as to what is going on. The mechanic says that my radiator is a three core and that they beleive that two of the cores are clogged, and that this may be the reason that my engine is still exhibiting the same overheating and pressure related problems as when i brought it in to them. He flat out told me that they dont like working on this old of a vehicle because its difficult to track down the issues and they dont have the time to do it... Basicaly saying that they dont want to work on it anymore... Im not sure that it even needed the head job due to the fact that it is still presenting with virtualy the same issues as when i brought it to them to work on in the first place. They also could not clear the code 42 or figure out why it was being triggered. The Suburban still runs well and doesnt have any issues with drivability except for the overheating and the high idle, but then again it ran well even before i brought it into the mechanic so...... Basicaly im pretty sure they were just stumped and ended up throwing parts at it and now they no longer want to work on it at all. Ive done some research on the net about code 42 and found that it could be faulty wireing, a bad connection on the prom, or somthing along those lines, but without the right tools i cant work on it myself. I need to know if the head gasket has failed on it again. I need to know if the radiator needs to be replaced, if the heater core needs to be replaced, and if the code 42 can be cleared. I need to know where the pressure in the coolant lines issue is coming from? i need to know if my AC compressor has gone bad and if it is the reason that i am now not getting any air (hot or cold) blowing? I need to know why the idle is now set too high, and if it has to do with the previous mechanic changing out, or otherwise doing somthing to my distributor. I know that there is no idle adjustment screw for the 89 TBI 5.7 and that the idle is controlled by the ECM, but could somthing in the distributor timing be so off, or advanced to many degrees that it is now messing with my computers unchangable factory preset. I just bought the suburban in Feb from a dealer for $2000 in which it was having NO-ISSUES at all, and two weeks after i bought it the transmission failed so had to have it rebuilt $1200, then right after i had the tranny rebuilt it was back in the shop for the head gasket issue which cost me an additional $1500. And now it still is having these same coolant issues regardless of my best efforts to have it road worthy.... I need the Suburban because my wife and i have four kids. It is my only vehicle, so as you can see im kinda stuck in a rock in a hard place. Thanks for any help guys.