Removing Oil Filter Adapter 1994 k1500 5.7

Discussion in 'Chevy Truck Forum' started by crabtruck, Nov 25, 2009.

  1. crabtruck

    crabtruck Senior Member

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    Have oil leak above adapter, not at hose fittings.
    Very crowded location, line fittings are hard to get wrench on.

    Before I drop shaft from t-case so I have room to work,
    I want to know: are these releases I am seeing on pipe fittings ?
    My eyes are not good so only my camera has been there.

    Secondly, if I need to drop shaft to get adapter out,
    can I just get away with removing the cap bolts and
    4 in the rear end flange without needing to do anything
    besides reinstall later ? Am I missing anything ?

    Appreciate any comments any may have.
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  2. gmctrucks

    gmctrucks Full Member

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    Crab could it be that you grab onto the outer nut and turn the inner one to break it loose? Maybe to place a o-ring in it when it leaks.
     
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  3. leolkfrm

    leolkfrm Full Member

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    Crab, Yes they are holding the lines in, I believe there is a special tool to aid in removing them, if you need to remove the shaft, be sure to mark the flange to realign it in the same spot.
    I believe the adapter has an "O" ring seal, you may be able to loosen it and drop it enough to replace without pulling the lines, but i'm not sure on it
     
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  4. Kennyray

    Kennyray Moderator Staff Member

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    And those plasic things that hold the lines in are one time use also. The adaptor does have an o-ring on it , I did an emergency repair on mine with an o-ring from an oil filter, I think it was an FL-1
     
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  5. crabtruck

    crabtruck Senior Member

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    Thanks for the come back guys.
    Lnes have to be replaced also, they leak at other end.:(

    Knew the o-rings were in there but
    hadn't been expecting "quick disconnects".
    Other end at rad doesn't seem to use them.

    Shaft is just unbolt - rebolt though ? (with marks)
     
  6. mudseeker

    mudseeker Senior Member

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    just unbolt the axle side of the drive shaft and compress the shaft some and it will move out of the way enough without having to unbolt the other side. grease will come out of the shaft, but just fill it back up via the grease zerk when you are done. the quick connects are only used to aid in production speed and efficiency.

    edit: does the wife know you have been in the kitchen drawers again? :rofl:
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2009
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  7. crabtruck

    crabtruck Senior Member

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    Cool, I'll give that a go.

    I'm in love with that funnel. :) Hate gaving oil run, leak bugs me.
    Wife selected that funnel for me rather than have me look around.
    I have a 10" scrap piece of garden hose just pushed on the end.
    Unscrew filter a little and oil drops in the same container that's
    catching from oil pan, same time. Like a custom fit, sits perfect,
    never falls, not in the way of grabbing filter. Filter comes down clean.
    My drain bucket of course is a old sink dish pan. Been using the
    same funnel, hose and dish pan since April 1994. Never a mess.

    Wife has gotten smart about kitchen items over the years.
    Now recommends things for truck, she coincidentally gets new ones.
    Currently she's pushing the idea of using a toaster as a block heater.
    She knows as well as I do, that's not a big CA issue.
    She says "Two can play this game."
     
  8. jbarker

    jbarker Senior Member

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    I replaced those quick-disconnect oil cooler line fittings on my '94 5.7L. They are a couple bucks each and on the pegboard at AutoZone. Of course I discovered this AFTER I had carefully sandblasted each of the old ones.
    My lines had failed also - aluminum tube broke at radiator fitting.
    I was lucky - engine was out when I replaced those fittings. Nasty location - good luck! Make sure the new lines "snap" in tight - mine leaked a little the first time.
    Love the funnel . . .
     
  9. crabtruck

    crabtruck Senior Member

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    OK, so I finally, FINALLY, got a chance to go after this again.

    And immediately ran into geometry problems I wasn't expecting.
    Freeing the front end of the Tcase shaft gave lots of room.
    So what, LOL, still being trapped by the strut deal so can't rotate.
    With my bad eyes and general inflexibilty I couldn't release pipe disconnects.
    So I figured bring the whole thing down and out towards rear.
    Could only travel about 1.5" in that direction.

    Can I yank this strut off without doing anything about marking or alignment ?
    Or dropping something on my head ?
    Don't have to worry about remaing oil, already ran into armpit, so done.
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  10. mudseeker

    mudseeker Senior Member

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    you're fine if you remove that brace. most people, myself included, don't bother to put them back once they come off. i know, if they didn't need it, they wouldn't have put it there.;)

    anyways, it's just a brace, no special alignment when it goes on and it doesn't hold anything up. just an extra connection point between the trans and engine.
     
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